Once inside, the waiter (or cook) waved us to the end of one of the long, canteen style tables, all set. He plonked in front of us a chilled carafe of house red, notwithstanding my son's age, and when my son asked for water he mentioned disapprovingly that we could order
some soda from the bar if we really wanted, although a jug of iced water was reluctantly brought out when we reminded him, after the meal. There was no menu, just a succession of homemade dishes. First salty broth with some chicken and vegetables, served with a plate of
bread and a huge globe of butter as large and yellow as a tennis ball, then a delicious salad coated in garlicky olive oil dressing studded with coarsely ground black peppercorns, herbed potatoes, meat stew, beans and vegetables cooked in tomato sauce. There was no check. We paid at the bar. The bleary eyed barman said twenty bucks even.


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